There was never any doubt that we would stop here, but what did concern me was everyone else ‘s reaction to Valle. People who asked us where we were going next, taxi drivers, teachers, Mexican friends we have met along the way, without exception everyone has said Valle es muy Linda ‘ “ahh but it is now a wealthy Mexicans playground.” So I have come with eyes wide open, expecting to be disappointed.
I suppose it’s not surprising that a charming Indian village surrounded by mountains on a lake, only 2 hrs from Mexico cIty should become such a popular destination for Mexicans, what is surprising I guess. is that it remained so unpretentious and unassuming for so long, our hidden secret. When the president of Mexico decides to build a house here, then the rest of Mexico follows.
There are now some seriously glamorous, state of the art designer houses, with fabulous views over the lake and quad bikes the vehicle of choice for their children. But that aside, Valle is essentially exactly as it always was, with its lovely churches, a pretty plaza, lovely market place, and the essential character all still intact, though sadly I haven’t seen a donkey laden with wood coming into the town and the Indian women no longer sit on bundles of coriander in the market.
We are staying in the MOST beautiful house of All, built and designed, over fifty years ago, beautifully in keeping with its rustic environment, by The Wiggs, good old family friends. high up a steep hill, with a view that hasn’t changed in 40 years of the lake and the endless folds of mountains beyond. Our taxi failed to make it up the hill when we first arrived and had to abandon us three quarters of the way up.
John and Tere were here with us at the weekend, but had to return to Mexico City on Sunday, leaving us here to enjoy their sublime house for the rest of the week, We are in Valle Heaven and being looked after immaculately by Vanessa and Omar. If this were a hotel I would call it “The best hotel ever.”
It has to be the most secure place in Mexico, following on from a spate of kidnappings in recent years, the police, the marines and the tourist police are here in abundance, making themselves Very clear. They line the plaza streets with their armoured vehicles and machine guns, it’s a shame, that life here has come to this, but better than feeling unsafe.
I have wandered the streets, refinding places, Calle Culebra where Marcus lived for years, the Wiggs old house, down the alley, squeezed between two buildings and the Calle Del pino, where the Blackmores had their higgle di piggle di house , and it’s lovely terraces. Then there was the old man with the gold teeth who had the sweet stall on the corner of the Plaza, where we used to jump out of the car on our homeward journey to the City to spend our peso on sweets. ( no sign of him) , but the stall still exists, now selling silver jewellery instead and of course the market, where they make the best chicken mole in town served In lovely earthenware Mexican dishes.
It’s the rainy season here and everyday without fail, at about 4 o’clock, it buckets and a mist rises over the lake and then after about 40 minutes, it’s all over and the sun comes out again, everything is now newly washed and clean, ready for a beautiful sunset.
Millie turns five and we celebrate in a small way. I manage to spot a pile of naked barbie dolls in the Avadero market, (second hand barbies never have any clothes on) She is delighted as we left her last ones behind in Oaxaca. I realise it’s not the best role model for our Millie, but they are her favourite right now and I am not going to argue with her. She will grow out of them one day,, ( I hope) I make her favourite pancakes for breakfast on the terrace and we watch Kenneth Brannaghs Cinderella as her treat.
My new little five year old struts out In her Elsa Birthday dress
I have very strong memories of a New Year’s Eve tradition here in Valle. A paper chase on Horseback. Ten to twelve families would get together and follow the paper trail that the dads or foxes (as they were termed), had laid along the way, we, the children and mothers and stragglers on, would follow the trail, on forest tracks on horseback, sometimes for hours till we reached French mans’ field, with a few teasing false trails along the way. The object was then to get the red neckerchief off from around the neck of the fox. This involved a high speed chase. Needless to say us littler ones were happy never to win the red bandana, but to proceed straight to the picnic that followed.
So no trip to Valle would be complete without a ride in the hills, so we ventured out to a Rancho forty minutes away from Valle, for a three hour ride this afternoon. Now equipped with lessons, along the way, Oaxaca, San Cristobal and Ecuador We set off feeling very much in charge, a lovely ride. At last we were free to trot, to canter, along these tracks, and Soft grassy slopes so free.
SSchool and coffee work on the terrace
John Wigg
The people here have been so overwhelmingly friendly and fun loving. There has not been one single moment of our time here in Mexico, when I have not felt completely safe, but more than that people have gone out of their way to help us. Even taxi drivers, who have such a bad reputation here ( accused of being kidnappers and robbers ) have been friendly and touchingly kind. It makes me feel sad that this rich-in-natural-resources-country gets such bad press from its Northern neighbours, and elsewhere too, and that the people should suffer so much from the ineptness of its diabolically corrupt government, is a tragedy. We learn from locals, how the Narco business here is more powerful and influential than the Government, now so old, so entrenched that third and fourth generation kids are now attending good schools, marrying the beauty queens and they quite frankly achieve more than their Government to alleviate poverty and raise standards of education in many areas. On the other hand we also know they are also responsible for the majority of deaths caused in this country.its a complex issue and it’s not going to go away in a hurry.
Is it not a wonder that people here have such a wonderful joie de vivre a just get on with their lives attitude, making the most of today. There seems to be such an acceptance of their fate, for many there is just no other option.
So tomorrow we leave, the end of our year long trip. a hideous journey home, which starts as a taxi pick up at 2 am to Tolucca, Monterrey, Miami, London. The children are besides themselves with excitement and joy.
Not until we have refitted our house with all its furniture and found school places for the children will we really be able to feel settled and be able to reflect back on our year.
The candle won’t blow out so help me everybody!
Chuffed to be 5! It’s been a long wait
Five Go Round The World 
HAPPY BIRTHDAY, MILLIE ! Sorry it’slate. CUsoon !
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Thank you lovely Bunty and tony for all your blog support along the way. I sent this in a hurry the night before we left and I am embarrassed to see so many typo mistakes! See you next week x
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Another wonderful post and so nice to see a picture of John Wigg (or Mr. Wigg as I knew him).
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So glad that you have been following some of our travels Robert, I sent this in a hurry the night before we left and I am embarrassed to see so many typo mistakes! Apologies x
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I totally agree , the wigs house has to be the best ….
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You’re adventure has been amazing to follow and read about. We hope you’ve had a safe flight back and we look forward to welcoming you back into the Village xx The Butlers
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Feeble, lovely to speak to you just now and so thrilled to have you all back! Resign yourselves to a very weird few months – you know what? I think you should keep going with your blog. It will be like being in another country for a while. Will be fascinating….xxxxx
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