New Zealand 7 – The Glorious South

Dynamite needs a new cam belt and a new water pump… This really is getting expensive, on the other hand Heather and Toby did pick it up for a complete bargain, so maybe now that we have virtually reconstructed it, it will be worth a whole lot more when we sell it. We are forced to stay the night in Hokitika while the car gets done. Having only just driven a few Kms up the road, from Pukekara. Hokitika is an uneventful place, though we are repeatedly told it is full of history and charm. Hokitika’s fame is that it was once a gold mining town. Once the Europeans got wind of the fact there was gold here, they came over in their droves, but it was so recent, less than 200 years ago, and the town has been poorly preserved. I imagine cowboy style towns like you see in Western movies, with the wooden columns and wooden platforms, and swinging doors, like they are described in the book I am reading, (The Luminaries) but sadly I am disappointed that it isn’t more characterful and realise how significant it is when you are used to seeing old buildings and being part of an older culture – just how much we take that for granted. I now know that while I am loving New Zealand, I could never live here, my heart and soul would never be filled. Phew!  That eliminates one from the list!

I am reading The Luminaries ( Eleanor Catto) at the moment. It all takes place here in Hokitika in 1870. The ships are in the bay, the wooden crates are being unloaded, the Maories are here, the book is coming to life.

We head on  to Punakaki and see the blow holes, and do a gorge walk. And swim in the river, this time inspired by Toby, (who is happy to get his kit off for a swim any day) – the children  quickly strip and run into the sea naked, but then run quickly out again when we spot a smack of blue jelly fish lying on the sand. We see the sea lion colony at Greymouth, and then finally head inland waving goodbye to this Glorious South, on to the gorgeous Murchinson valley and down to Picton for our crossing by ferry to Wellington, this time in glorious hot sunshine.

We spend the weekend with The Gees in Wellington. Toby and Heather go to  Australia for a weekend wedding and we hold the fort and try to look after 6 children. We don’t attempt to do very much. After my terrifying 20 minutes of losing Loma at the Southbank complex in London 2 years ago, when oh so independent Loma decided to take a walk and wandered off solo.  Meanwhile my hair turned grey and I imagined every possible terrible tragic likely scenario (the river on one side, the road below, the multitudes of people, the endless possibilities of where she could have ended up). She was picked up by a security guard within the Festival Hall ( they were then reluctant to return her to her dad  because Toby couldn’t prove he was her dad and Loma who was looking at us and me sobbing with relief as if to say ” I don’t know what the fuss is all about ” but didn’t help us by  spontaneously say ” daddy” just when you want them  to! It’s a wonder they entrusted us again!

We don’t need to do very much, the children play so well together. Zeb, Gabriel and Jemima spend most of the weekend crouched on the floor playing Lego, while Loma and Millie continue playing at dressing up and Thalia, who has taken to calling me Fatty Fat Fee, just away in her own little world.

Toby and Heather return and I am able to hand over three children and a house intact.