New Zealand 3 – Dynamite lets us down

We lose Millie to the Land of ” Frozen ” for the next 10 days as she and Loma, also 4, also potty about everything to do with the Pixar Film ” Frozen”. They listen to, sing along to, and pretend to be Ana and Elsa from the film. Hands and arms entwined around each other, totally engrossed In their own make believe world. Whenever we catch a sighting of them they are dressed in some item of my clothing, or one  of our blue silks (sleeping bag liners) trailing behind them, donning scarves in their hair to create long locks. Singing ” Do you wanna build a snowman ?” They are quite adorable.

We head off early to the South Island, across on the Ferry through the atmospheric Marlborough Sounds, enveloped in mist. Our car is crammed. We now have tents, some basic camping equipment and sleep bag, to give us full flexibility for our our three weeks down here. We feed all the children Weetabix and wait for the magician to come and entertain the children.

Arriving in Picton, we picnic in the playground at the port. Then drive through some magnificent country, along the East South Coast. First the wines, Cloudy Bay, so tantalisingly temptingly close…..but with 6 children… I think not.

We stop for a break at a very atmospheric wind-blown beach, North of Kaikoura. It resembles a cemetery of bleached smoothed trees, lying upturned on the beach. The huge trees, torn from the ground with their roots, have been sanded down by the waves and sun and pounded across the Pacific Ocean, all the way from Distant lands. The beach is like an art gallery, with sculptures and dens donning the sands, some of them intentionally, others just strewn. We collect armfuls of drift wood (I am in heaven) which serve as guns, sticks, etc for the rest of the journey.

It’s that time of the evening and time to find somewhere to sleep. But It’s a busy time of year, and everywhere is full, 10 is a big number to accommodate. We finally stop at a camp site in Kaikoura. The kids are off on the zip wire, the swings, quickly making friends, while Mark and I put up the tent. There happen to be 2 trees with an abundance of tiny red and yellow plums hanging over our tents, which we pick. So it’s delicious stewed plums and yoghurt for pudding and breakfast over the next few days.

We drive onwards, South along the East Coast, but when we stop for a roadside coffee mid-morning, we realise that Jemima had got into the car without her crocs – that’s too far to go back and very annoying.

We arrive in Christchurch, which resembles a war-torn city, stopping briefly to look at the beautiful cathedral which has been temporarily rebuilt, largely out of cardboard, on the site of the original one which was destroyed in the earthquake of 2011. It is light and airy and completely beautiful – and yes all the panels of the ceiling are made of Cardboard tubes.  Toby, with his beautiful high contralto voice, sings a psalm. The haunting sound, resonates through the building, hushing passers by who have stumbled into admire the building.  A lovely memorable commemoration.

On the adjoining street is a memorial to the 185 people who died during the earthquake. Much of the city is still a pile of a rubble, either being rebuilt, or totally modern and new. It is like a ghost town, weirdly quiet and sombre. Extraordinary that so few people died, considering the devastation caused to this city. For every person who died there stands a white chair, laid out in theatre style seating, as though waiting poignantly for the audience that will never arrive, Some of them are plastic, wooden, metal, old rocking chairs, a wheel chair, a high chair and at the sight of the tiny little baby carry-chair, I get a big lump in my throat. 

Then a quick stop at The Warehouse to get a cool box, clearly required in this hot weather. 

Oh dear, the car won’t start – the battery is dead and our brand new to us Dynamite won’t start. Toby and Heather have headed on south. I wizz back in to get some jump leads. This turns out to be the best $15 we spend. Until we get to Wannaka, we will not be able to get to a garage, so this is how we will be starting the car four times a day, every day. 

Next stop, Ohau Lake – wow, we are now surrounded by big mountains. Snow-capped, remote, nothing here. A beautiful spot, a lovely warm welcoming lodge, with a sunny disposition. A fabulous spot.  Probably better still when this whole area is covered in snow, as a winter lodge, but basking in the sun overlooking the metallic looking lake it is pretty fantastic. I wish we were staying longer at this enticing remote spot, too expensive for our traveller’s budget but a fabulous treat.

We catch up on washing, picnic and walk and treat ourselves to a grown up dinner in the restaurant with lovely wine while the kids sleep downstairs. This is a rare and special occasion.  I like this one day sleeping in a tent the next day In a comfy lodge, wining and dining lifestyle.