Return to Addis

So, after our visits to the various tribes, we start our long journey back to Addis. One thing that struck us in what was often pretty inhospitable landscape in South Omo was how quickly things can change. We crossed a bone dry riverbed one morning – we commented on how sad it was to see such dry rivers in the rainy season. However, Bek said that there would animals coming to drink from it each day. We though we must have misunderstood – there was no way any creature was getting a drop of water from that dust bowl.  But sure enough, on the way back after a torrential downpour, the same river was in full spate – we had to wait for half an hour before our Landcruiser (with its vertical exhaust for just this eventuality) was able to cross.

We stopped off at a lodge on Lake Langano, the only Bilharzia-free lake in Ethiopia’s series of Rift Valley volcanic lakes. It was lovely to able to swim, even though the water was the colour of well- brewed milky tea.  Our room was so typical of our experience in Ethiopia – on entering our beautifully made hut/bungalow we were greeted with polished parquet flooring, sofas in the sitting room and rather attractive bedrooms with clean comfy beds (although as Fi has pointed out, somewhat lacking the touch of an interior designer). But then you walk into the bathroom – a concrete floor with a wooden pallet underneath the most basic shower that squirts a jet of water over your head onto a cheap, plastic shower curtain held up on a even cheaper, curved plastic shower rail, suspended by a flimsy metal chain that’s screwed into a rafter. Can it really be that every single bathroom appliance in the country is the lowest quality Chinese import?

In the morning, we called in at a small safari park and on our short walk we saw (as promised) Grant’s gazelle, warthogs aplenty and a few Ostriches. We had deliberately opted not to do a big safari in Africa on the basis that it was a big ask for the kids. That seems a bit ironic now, given what we’ve put them through and now I’ve doubt whatsoever that they would have coped just fine.  Still, it was great to see a few animals in their natural habitat.

Then it was pedal to the metal (or as best you can, given the roads) to Adama to see Dave O’Halloran and his Africa Juice business.  It was great to catch up with Dave and to see for ourselves his business that we’ve heard so much about. It’s a BIG fruit farm, which we surveyed from a suitable vantage point over a rather excellent Gin & Tonic sundowner that our genial host had brought along. The next morning, the children were particularly excited to get togged up to see the juicing factory – I always love to see factories and production lines, and it was interesting to see what is pretty sophisticated kit doing what is essentially a pretty simple task – bashing fruit!

And then, at last, it was back to grubby Addis after nearly 2 weeks in (mainly) lush, rural Ethiopia. Back to the still non-functioning telephone system (a great example of how state-run monopolies don’t work) and various other frustrations. On that note, here’s a list of just some of the things (in no particular order) that we take for granted in the UK:

1) being able to connect a phone call at the first attempt
2) toilets that flush
3) MOT certification
4) electric sockets that are securely fixed to the wall

5) parks
6) internet that’s faster that downloading via a phone line 20 years ago
7) taxi drivers that show up at or before the scheduled time
8) the inherent stability of 3-pin plugs
9) door handles and locks that can be opened again, once closed and locked
10) a constant electricity supply

(I know that this is par for the course when travelling, but we do take them for granted at home!!)

While in Addis, we popped into the Friendship Mall and decided to treat Millie to her first professional hairdo. It was absolutely extraordinary how quickly they worked – they washed, brushed and braided her hair in less time than in takes me to just get the tangles out! Watching them do the braiding was like watching an finely tuned machine, with fingers going so fast it was a blur, and beautiful plats appearing at about 1cm/second. Apart from the speed, the other massive difference to my hairbrushing efforts was that there was not a peep out of Millie – she sat there, as good as gold, enjoying being the centre of so much fuss and attention.

We also spent valuable time with Michelle & Thomas and their gorgeous 4 children. They are travellers from the top of their head to the tips of their toes and their experience and insight has been really helpful. It was also great to spent some relaxing time at their home, the Hilton or the British Embassy with adult conversation as the kids entertained themselves!

Finally, there’s one thing I must mention before we leave our big trip to the south behind… Bek (full name Bereket) from Julian Tour & Travel (http://julianethiopiatour.com) was absolutely fantastic and we cannot recommend him highly enough. He was fabulous with all the children, had excellent English, is from Bonga in the south west so new all the towns, villages and places to stay like the back of his hand, was super-keen to ensure we had a fabulous time and perhaps above all, is a very intelligent and thoughtful man who’s not afraid to say what he thinks. Thanks, Bek my friend 🙂